Jodhpur, India

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Jodhpur

From Jaisalmer, I booked a bus to Jodhpur. The bus was quite comfortable but no AC - it actually had more leg room than the plane (which is strange since I am taller than 3/4 of the country!). It was a cool bus because it had these sleeper sections meant for 2 people each above the seats (left photo) - though 6-8 people crammed into them instead. They kind of looked like human fish tanks when the windows into the bus were closed. It took about 5 hours to get to Jodhpur.

bus to Jodhpur At the bus station, there were 20 tuk tuk drivers trying to get our business. The bidding war started at 50 rupees and I finally settled on 20 to take me to the Haveli Guest House. Haveli Guest House, located in Makrana Mohalla, is a tiny refurbished section of a 250-year old Jodhpur Haveli. It had a rooftop restaurant with a great view of the fort and clean, decorative rooms with ensuite bathrooms. They didn't have AC but luckily it wasn't that hot in Jodhpur, so the fan was perfect. Of course the fan has to work for it to be perfect! In the middle of the night, I woke up sweating because there was another power cut and the fan had stopped. Ahhh the fun part about going to India in monsoon season!

The Blue City

Jodhpur is known as the "Blue City" because there are neighborhoods where all the houses are blue (started with highest caste painting their houses blue, but now anyone can and they say it helps repel mozzies). Jodhpur, the second largest city of Rajasthan, at the edge of the Thar desert was once the capital of the Marwar state. It was founded in 1459 A.D. by Rao Jodha-chief of the Rathore clan of Rajputs who claimed to be descendants of Rama - hero of the epic 'Ramayana'. The city dominated by the massive Mehrangarh Fort on a rocky hill is charming with its wealth of historic attractions and colourful markets which specialises in antiques. It is still one of the leading centres of wool, cattle, camels and salt.

Mehrangarh Fort is situated on a rocky cliff, 400 feet above Jodhpur and surrounded by high and thick walls. To enter the fort, seven gates have to be crossed. Some of these gates still bear marks of many a siege that this fort has withstood. The Mehrangarh Fort encloses many palaces, which are known for their intricate carvings and sprawling courtyards. Moti Mahal or the Pearl Palace has a delicately carved stone screen and treasures the Sringar Chowki, royal throne of Jodhpur. Umaid Villas displays the Rajput miniature paintings and Ajit Villas exhibits musical instruments and the royal costumes. Both these villas are joined by a beautiful mirror room.

Mehrangarh Fort I walked 10 minutes to the fort from Haveli Guest House. On the way, you passed stalls that sold temple offerings of marigolds, coconuts, saffron-tinsel headbands and incense sticks. A path from the fort to the Hindu temple is littered with spilt coconut milk and shells. The entrance fee was 250 Rs which includes audio tour and still camera privileges.The audio tour was one of the best I've heard - and I'm not a huge museum/audio tour fan. There were great details and stories included on the tour, instead of just describing this room and that sword. The palaces in the fort, strictly embraced the principle of the segregation of the sexes. The women had their own courtyards and separate bedrooms with hand-carved screens (which filter the sunlight, allow the air to circulate, and allow the women to watch everything without being seen by the men).

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